OVER the past decade sauvignon blanc, in particular the New Zealand versions, have been riding a highly aromatic wave of popularity with wine consumers.
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Chardonnay, that deep yellow, oak-rich drop that once graced our tables, took a decent knock from these new varieties and dropped out of fashion.
Chardonnay vines in Australia were ripped up and replaced with sauvignon blanc along with the latest fad grape, pinot gris.
Sauvignon blanc is now the most planted vine in Australia.
Chardonnay though, often described as the ‘king’ of grapes, now seems to be staging something of a comeback.
Thirty-one chardonnay wines have been submitted into the Orange Wine Show, a new record for the variety, and for pioneering vigneron Stephen Doyle, Orange is the best place in Australia to make the finest chardonnay.
“The classic chardonnays come from Burgundy in France and Orange has a very similar, continental environment,” Mr Doyle said.
Much less, if any, oak, lighter colours and brighter fruit flavours are the hallmarks of modern chardonnays and it’s our cool climate that gives Orange chardonnays the edge.
“Our cool climate means that the natural acidity in the fruit is protected, our grapes are well balanced, soft on the palate and simply delicious,” Mr Doyle said. “Coastal low-lying vineyards lose that balance and the only other region that compares is the Adelaide Hills.”
Gerald Naef from Patina Wines agrees that chardonnay is the variety that holds out as being the pick of the white wines being made in Orange.
“We can’t really make those big oaky, buttery chardonnays here in Orange,” Mr Naef said, “People still come looking for them, but the majority are looking for the leaner, lighter styles. A lot of people who think that they don’t like chardonnay are really surprised and enjoy the cool climate styles.”
The 2014 vintage wasn’t without its problems. Late rain meant that getting the fruit in added extra nerves and urgency.
Despite this, Mr Naef is happy with how his vintage is coming along.
“It’s still in the barrel and it’s looking really good,” he said.