That has to be seriously disappointing and would make you think twice about ever growing your own tomatoes again. So what is happening? 

In my opinion we are living in a particularly disease-prone area and our soil preparation isn't always particular enough, although this is 'key' to success.

Tomato bushes are gross feeders and respond best to a constant supply of nutrients and moisture. Well composted animal manure should be incorporated into the planting area a good six weeks prior to planting and moisture levels must be kept even, although often we let our tomato bushes run out of moisture and get the droops before we turn on the hose and flood them.

What can we do to control and hopefully prevent the onset of disease in our tomato crops?

Firstly select varieties that have excellent disease resistance. Not sure? Ask for advice when purchasing seedlings or just read the label. 

If you are growing from seed, ensure it is your own 'saved' seed or from a reputable source. Keep the weeds under control and get rid of infected plants immediately.

Ensure your plants have good, all round, nutrition and if you have had diseased plants in the past, do not re-plant in the same area. Lastly don't water overhead, irrigate tomato plants at ground level to keep foliage dry.

These are some common diseases that are seen regularly in our local area. 

'Target spot' produces brown circular spots on the oldest and lowest leaves. Leaves may also turn yellow and drop off. 'Verticillium and fusarium wilt' are fungal diseases which may affect fruit, especially in hot weather. They can be controlled by crop rotation and varietal selection. Infected plants should be destroyed.

'Bacterial canker' is revealed by wilting beginning in the lower leaves. Leaves curl upwards, turn brown and die. 'Tobacco mosaic virus' is also a problem for tomatoes and often overlooked. Smokers should wash their hands before touching tomatoes, and never drop butts in the garden. A common one that seems to be 'flavour of the month' is 'Blossom End Rot' which causes the end of the fruit to become soft. It is caused by a calcium deficiency, which can be induced by allowing plants to become to dry between soakings. Ensure plants are mulched to help keep soils evenly moist. 

So growing tomatoes in our climate is not a 'walk in the park', although lots of people have huge success.

Good selection, soil preparation and plant care are the keys.