Melbourne Grande dame gets a facelift

French swagger meets stunning views at this Melbourne CBD landmark.

The 360-room Sofitel Melbourne on Collins, a grande dame of the city's hotel scene since 1981, has channelled the French vibe of its "Paris end" of Collins Street location into its guestrooms. An 18-month, $15 million facelift has added evocative photography, timber shutters and a statement blue armchair to every room. Other more subtle, angular touches were inspired by the late, great architect IM Pei, who designed the mixed-use complex, Collins Place, housing the hotel.

With rooms beginning from level 36, it's easy to get a handle on your location simply by gazing out the window. My room, oriented eastwards, offers a greenery-filled view over the Treasury Gardens and Fitzroy Gardens. Melbourne's city centre is eminently walkable but, if you need to catch a tram, there's a stop outside the hotel.

This hotel, with its surprisingly dramatic interior atrium, is all about elegant luxury and the little touches. While waiting to check in, for example, you can help yourself to a beverage (ruby mocktail or lemongrass tea on the day of my stay). Public spaces showcase artworks, which continue into the guestrooms. Since 2006, the hotel has collaborated with Global Art Projects (GAP) on its artwork. For the refurb, GAP commissioned 2500 images of Melbourne and Paris from photographers Jon Rendell and Claire Ropartz. Their photographs, focusing on architecture, monuments and street life, give the rooms an apartment feel.

Sustainability is a strong focus, with guests urged to get over the fact no bottled water is provided and to instead drink tap. Likewise, there's no taking home of the luxe Balmain toiletries, provided in wall-attached dispensers. In the main room, a tall angled mirror near the coffee-making area reflects daylight and makes the room feel much larger. Turns out that's more than a clever design move - it's one of the triangular elements that pays tribute to IM Pei's structural geometry. Just remember: Pei was the guy who gave the Louvre its glass pyramid.

There's nothing quite like dining next to a window at No 35 - the hotel's fine-diner. From our spot, we can see not only the Yarra River but beyond to Port Phillip Bay. As our dishes arrive - from lightly cured kingfish with beetroot cream to Basque cheesecake - the grey clouds outside slowly turn every sunset colour imaginable. My dining companion and I raise a flute of Taittinger to it all - we could get used to this art de vivre. Until June, No 35 is also serving a French Impressionist-inspired lunch on Thursdays and Fridays to mark its partnership with THE LUME Melbourne, a digital art gallery in the South Wharf precinct.

From the hotel, it's a short stroll to the MCG, Melbourne Park (home of the Australian Open), Federation Square, the National Gallery of Victoria, the theatre district, arty laneways and more.

Rolling back to my room after dinner, two guests ask if I know the whereabouts of the massage chairs. I shrug and they continue into the gym on their quest. Before checking out, I resolve I too must chase down these chairs. Thank goodness I find them (they're indeed in the gym) because they're heavenly. Two high-tech chairs have their own dedicated space. Just lay back, push a button or two and enjoy the next best thing to a human masseuse. And if no one's waiting, repeat.

Katrina Lobley was a guest of the National Gallery of Victoria and Sofitel Melbourne on Collins.