Beachside retreat: A real Deal in the UK

It's just over an hour since we left London and our high-speed train is zipping beside the English Channel when I hear a ping from my phone. "Welcome to France," says the message, and for a moment I start dreaming of baguettes, fromage and vin rouge. I'm actually in Kent, a county in England's south-eastern corner, but as the sun pierces the clouds, casting the Channel in an entrancing blanket of blues and greens, I appreciate why I got the text: looming a mere 40 kilometres away, as the gull flies, is the French coastline.

Kent's proximity to continental Europe has shaped the heritage and character of its castle-dotted shores and seaside towns, the most famous being Dover, known for its iconic white cliffs, formidable fortress and ferries to and from the French port of Calais. I hop off the train, however, at nearby Deal, a quaint old smugglers' town that's emerged as a popular getaway for so-called DFLs (Down From London), who are lured by the promise of fresh, salty sea air, a wander-worthy historic quarter and an increasingly enticing range of places in which to eat, drink and sleep.

I check into The Royal Hotel, a cosy hideaway by Deal's slanting shingle beach. Nautical paraphernalia peppers the public areas, while creaking staircases lead to refurbished guest rooms named after celebrated British seafarers (staying in "Collingwood", I'm treated to glorious Channel vistas). I join an entertaining walking tour with local author George Chittenden, who delves into Deal's raffish past, chronicling the area's invasion by Julius Caesar and his Roman legions in 55 BCE, and the 18th-century smuggling gangs who'd row over from France with contraband wine, brandy and tobacco.

"Deal was a rough, dangerous place back then; a hotbed of organised crime, drunken sailors, murderers. It's a lot nicer nowadays," says Chittenden, as we swap the seafront promenade for the postcard-pretty backstreets, where pastel-hued Georgian cottages and Victorian townhouses shoulder cute independent stores and galleries selling bespoke curios and paintings of Deal's land and seascapes. Trendy neighbourhood bars and eateries tout regionally sourced seasonal cuisine and wine lists featuring Kentish chardonnay and other zesty local tipples (Kent has similar chalky soils and microclimates to those of northern France's Champagne region).

I can recommend Victuals & Co, an elegant restaurant tucked down a plant-potted side alley (I like its quiche-like trout and watercress tart and soy-and-miso-glazed duck breast, with duck confit spring roll and sesame pakchoi). Also excellent and flavoursome is 81 Beach Street, a casual-chic bistro that has me feasting on satay king prawn skewers, catch-of-the-day - whole plaice - baked on-the-bone, and white chocolate and lavender cheesecake.

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With the food being so scrumptious during my two-night Deal break, I'm happy to be active. One morning, after a full English breakfast at my hotel, I stroll for an hour or so north along the seafront towards briny, marshy Sandwich Bay, exchanging "hellos" with locals out walking their dogs and watching golfers swinging away on the links courses. Another day, I head south, hiring a bike and cycling a mostly flat, but occasionally hilly 30-kilometre loop that hugs the coast then snakes inland through undulating countryside quilted with fields of grazing crows, cows and sheep.

Parking up near Dover, I hike a breezy trail atop the legendary white cliffs, glimpsing ships at sea and a restored World War II Spitfire plane soaring above. Pedalling back to Deal, I zig-zag down to St Margaret's Bay, where I spy the former beachfront holiday home and writing retreat of James Bond's creator, Ian Fleming. In Kingsdown, the next hamlet along, the Zetland Arms has a lovely setting for a breather and a pint. Patrons mingle on outside tables, beside colourfully painted fishing boats and beach huts, with the Channel (and France) a captivating backdrop beyond the pebbles.

Deal Pier

Only in Deal for the day? Be sure to walk on the town's 1950s-era pier. You'll glean fabulous views over the Channel and back towards Deal's picturesque old quarter. At the end of this 311-metre structure is Deal Pier Kitchen, a bright contemporary venue that tempts with its lobster and crayfish rolls.

Castles

In 1539, King Henry VIII commissioned a chain of coastal fortifications to defend England. Still intact is Deal Castle, where visitors can navigate eerie underground tunnels, but nearby Walmer Castle is even more beguiling. You can nose around its eclectically furnished rooms, have tea and scones on its sea-facing, cannon-laden terrace and amble through the beautiful gardens.

Shopping

Deal's compact historic core is good for browsing and purchasing. Seek out Hoxton Store for funky textiles and homewares, Rees & Rees for jewellery, and Mrs Lang for upcycled hand-made fashions. Works from emerging and established local artists are on display at galleries like Linden Hall Studio and Don't Walk Walk.

Bar-hopping

Beer and cider lovers will enjoy traditional Deal pubs like The Ship Inn and groovy hangouts like Smugglers Records, where you can nurse local ales by racks of vinyls. Prefer wine? Hit Le Pinardier, the sister establishment of Frog and Scot, a Gallic-inspired tapas bar and restaurant. Pop across the High Street for a gooseberry margarita at The Rose, a hip bar-restaurant-hotel where dining menus are crafted in collaboration with top London-based Portuguese chef Nuno Mendes.

Betteshanger Country Park

A 20-minute bike ride from Deal, this adventure seekers' haven spans a former colliery and offers everything from archery and army-style obstacle courses to fossil hunting and woodland orienteering.

Getting there: Several daily high-speed trains depart London St Pancras for Deal. Journey time is about 1 hour 20 minutes. Buy tickets via southeasternrailway.co.uk

Staying there: The Royal Hotel has rooms from about $175. See theroyalhotel.com

Getting around: Deal is walkable, but to venture further afield, hire bikes from Hut 55 on the town's seafront. See hut55.co.uk

Explore more: whitecliffscountry.org.uk; visitbritain.com

The writer travelled courtesy of Visit Britain.