Hotel Review: OMO3 Sapporo Susukino

Where: 6-chome-14-1 Minami 5 Jonishi, Sapporo, Japan
How much: From 6000 yen ($63)
After opening a traditional ryokan in rural Nagano in 1914, Kuniji Hoshino and his descendants helped to pioneer ecotourism in Japan. In the last three decades, Hoshino's great-grandson Yoshiharu has expanded the Hoshino Resorts brand and introduced the OMO line of city hotels. More than merely a bed for the night, these hotels treat the surrounding urban area as a resort by curating a range of activities that unlock their cultural and culinary secrets.
With some 4000 restaurants, bars, izakayas and clubs, Sapporo's Susukino neighbourhood is the largest entertainment district north of Tokyo. At night this neon playground is crowded with tourists and locals alike, though OMO3 Susukino remains remarkably quiet despite being close to the heart of the action. If you're looking to have fun while the sun is still shining, nearby Odori Park hosts vast beer gardens in summer and the famed Sapporo Snow Festival features hundreds of custom-built ice structures each winter.

Every Hoshino property reflects its location and the first thing you see upon entering the lobby is a wall of neon signs inspired by Susukino's night-time economy. Beyond that, the designers have played things pretty straight with an aesthetic that's smart but relaxed. A large cafeteria off the lobby is one of the few public areas of a hotel that for the most part encourages guests to get out and explore their surroundings.

The hotel's 226 rooms are split into twins, doubles and triples and while not huge (twins are 15 square metres and doubles 21), they feel positively roomy compared to the cramped quarters of some Japanese business hotels. Mostly white walls are enlivened with splashes of colour and in the closet you'll find a yukata - a set of comfortable cotton pyjamas. Rooms on the upper floors boast views over Susukino, with windows that actually open to allow fresh air in. And if you do venture out to the many bars nearby, the effective blackout blinds will also come in handy. In winter some rooms are outfitted with ski-themed decorations and racks to hang skiing (or snowboarding) gear.
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In lieu of a hotel restaurant, there is an unmanned ground-floor cafeteria that's open 24 hours. The selection changes throughout the day, from breakfast baked goods and onigiri to sandwiches and salads, and there's also a coffee machine, Enomatic wine machine and Sapporo draft beer. It works for snacks than full meals, but a large wall-mounted map in the lobby is studded with more than 50 restaurant recommendations within walking distance.

You won't find many facilities in the hotel but a wide range of activities led by OMO "rangers" are a brilliant way to get the most out of a visit to Susukino. These can be requested in English and range from free apero evenings explaining local traditions and nighttime strolls through the neighbourhood to ticketed events including themed tram tours with local ice cream and beer. The most popular (for good reason) is ramen hopping, which is about $20. It begins with an introduction to the miso-flavoured base that Hokkaido is famous for before guests are set loose in "ramen alley" with tickets to taste three half bowls from the 17 tightly clustered restaurants.
Wandering ramen alley choosing between ramen with briny shijimi clams, salmon or basil - and then enjoying all three.
Explore more: hoshinoresorts.com
The writer was a guest of OMO3 Sapporo Susukino.




