Tranquillity to spare on island adventure

But as the minutes pass, other things begin to register. Along a wide boulevard lined with lofty garry oaks, the hazy snow-capped peaks of Mount Olympus come into focus, looming in nearby Washington State. A maple leaf flag flutters slowly above moored boats as the late afternoon light shimmers across a motionless water surface. My British associations quickly dissipate. I know where I am now, amid the raw, natural beauty of the Pacific Northwest.

Give me a body of water and I'm a happy traveller. Better yet, surround me with ocean and a whisper of a mainland somewhere and I'm smitten. Islands come in all shapes and sizes, but from the outset, there's grandness about Vancouver Island, a two-hour ferry ride across the Strait of Georgia from the metropolis of Vancouver.

With a year-round cool temperate climate, there isn't much beach lounging and cocktail sipping here. The order of play is exploring bays and headlands and taking in rustic views, with a tipple here and there, and some wellness thrown in. There is more than enough tranquillity to go around.

At the mouth of Victoria's inner harbour, there's a tangible warmth as I check in to the Inn at Laurel Point, one of Canada's most iconic independently owned hotels. Along corridors, there are glass cases housing striking First Nations and Japanese artefacts collected by the owners on their travels; every staff member greets me with a smile.

On the Erickson Wing, my Studio King room is a spacious, intelligent blend of luxury and minimalism with an impressive marble bathroom. I walk out on the balcony just in time to see a seaplane hum out of nowhere, land and slide into view like an oversized duck. How else would you commute home after a day's work in nearby Vancouver?

The following morning, sea air makes way for green landscapes as I'm whisked past emerald hedgerows, towering maple trees, and expansive farms towards one of the Island's most famous visitor attractions. The Butchart Gardens - a 119-year-old botanical marvel set on an exhausted limestone quarry site - has a dense cool air this autumn morning. Around a bend, I am met with the Sunken Garden, one of the property's best-known and most photographed views.

Perfectly manicured, the array of flora dazzles the eyes. No blade of grass, leaf, or branch appears out of place across the 151 flower beds.

The small throng of people milling around take their photos and selfies devoid of clamour. Perhaps it's the oxygen-rich air or the cornucopia of colour, but the scene before us has the crowd, including myself, locked in a slight trance. The serenity is deafening.

My inner child can't believe what they are seeing when I lay eyes on the Rose Carousel. This indoor vintage carousel has 30 hand-carved wooden animals and chariots. At $2 a ride, it's a great laugh; unexpectedly, most riders are what you might deem "big kids".

Afterwards, there's more meandering through the Rose and Japanese gardens before a house-made strawberry banana gelato cone. These gardens have heritage and a long history, but there's something unquestionably youthful here at the same time.

There are a few more country lanes to wind through before we pull up at Sea Cider Farm and Ciderhouse on the north-east coast beside Saanichton Bay. Long orchard rows of apple trees guide your eyes across the Cordova Channel as butterflies and birdsong do their best to distract you from the outlook towards nearby James Island.

I don't mind a dry cider on occasion, so when I learn there are more than 60 varieties of apples grown across four hectares, I realise we're looking at many differing styles. And I'm not wrong. Seated on the Ciderhouse deck, I opt for the Classic Ciders tasting flight - with names like Wild English and Kings & Spies - as the midday sun pierces a cloudless sky.

An Omnivore Platter of local cheeses, charcuterie, cider jelly and other delectable smallgoods lands on our table - a great match with the zesty, flavoursome acidity of the drinks.

Wellness, if it isn't the main purpose of your sojourn, should never take a backseat when you're away. Back in Victoria, HAVN is a wellness space that has taken repurposing to a laudable level. Housed on an 80-year-old marine vessel fixed at Ship Point on the inner harbour, saunas, hot and cold pools, and green social spaces permanently float in the name of rejuvenation.

I get a feel of Scandinavian refinement-meets-Canadian wilderness on the open-air upper deck. It's a great way to break up activities and revitalise myself for the rest of the day. If you're usually an avid holiday napper, try a cold plunge sometime instead.

Seeing the shore falling behind and setting out into the ocean feels like a long time coming. I'm aboard a late afternoon excursion with Eagle Wing Whale & Wildlife Tours. There's palpable excitement on board, and when we catch our first glimpse of a humpback whale and her calf, everybody looks round at one another in wide-eyed wonder - it's a special moment.

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Acknowledging we're about to start the engines and head back, Caio, one of the boat team, tells us, "Keep your eyes peeled. I have a feeling we might see some orcas on the way back."

And just like that, as if dress rehearsed, a black and white mass emerges beside the boat and rasps a dewy column into the air. I've never once seen an orca in the UK.

Getting there: Air Canada and Qantas service regular routes from all major airports to Vancouver. From here, you can take a short domestic flight or a ferry ride, or catch a seaplane departing from Downton Vancouver at Coal Harbour.

Staying there: Rates at the Inn at Laurel Point start from around $200 per night in winter and $300 in summer (based on double share). laurelpoint.com

Spot a whale: You can spot whales all year round off Victoria, but the best time of year is May - October. Eagle Wing Tours offer a variety of experiences with different pricing depending on the season. eaglewingtours.com

Explore more: tourismvictoria.com

The writer was a guest of Tourism Victoria.