Discover Hobart's hidden gem where Matisse meets modern luxury

The history of the Islington and the land on which it stands crackles with characters, both dubious and upstanding. Its first European owner in 1806 was a "dangerous and troublesome" person; after the Regency-style house was built in 1847, its procession of residents included a distinguished parliamentarian who was Tasmania's premier for a time. Fast-forward to the early noughties and an enterprising, art-collecting couple transformed the house into a world-class luxury boutique hotel, its modern signature a soaring sandstone and glass atrium that today is as speccy as ever. La Vie Hotels & Resorts took over the property in 2022, unveiling a makeover late last year.

The Islington sits grandly behind a picket-style fence on a well-heeled stretch of Davey Street in South Hobart; it's almost equidistant between Salamanca Place on the waterfront and the Wrest Point Casino, a five-minute drive away. The 1300-metre-high Mount Wellington is omnipresent in the background. You see it through the floor-to-ceiling windows of your suite, and as you wander the hotel's English-inspired gardens, home to a 120-year-old willow tree and a pond frequented by wild ducks.

After the soft refurbishment by La Vie - including a paint job and new furniture and lighting - the Islington feels fresh and of-the-moment, without chintz or fustiness while maintaining its colonial-era connections in the architecture and key antiques. At night, it still feels like you might see a ghost - although general manager Mark Dille assures he's never seen one in his two-and-a-half years here.

There are 11 suites divided between the original house and the modern "west wing" where my Garden Suite is, a generous 30 square metres with a custom-made king bed, a sitting area with new furniture, and a bathroom with a deep tub and underfloor heating. French doors open on to a flagstone patio - a top spot to sample some of the locally made minibar treats, such as Elly's salted caramel bang, Huon Valley salted cashews and a Frogmore Creek pinot noir.

Breakfast is served in the atrium, a blissful space with a central fireplace and a view that includes Mount Wellington and a flourishing herb garden set within immaculate box hedges. It's the only daily meal on offer at the Islington (special dinners can be booked for 10 people or more), but with an executive chef, Anthony Illingworth, steering things nonetheless, it's a top-end one, using produce that's local and seasonal. My sweet corn and zucchini fritters with smoked salmon and citrus chipotle sauce are excellent. As is the flat white.

The previous owners amassed an extensive art collection that adorns every wall and brings you face to face with the works of masters - Matisse, Warhol, David Hockney - as you wander through the rooms and corridors. Yes, Hobart is on the doorstep and you will explore it, but make sure you set aside time to linger at the Islington in spots such as the light-drenched Morning Room and the Games Room, where the centrepiece is a vintage poker table, the chips stacked and ready to go.

A crisp early-morning meander around the exquisite gardens, alive with blooms, birdsong and sunshine. Sitting nooks appear around every corner, and I only wish I had a few hours to spend here with a book (and a warm jacket).

The writer was a guest of the hotel