Inside the iconic Kathmandu hotel that blends heritage with big ambition

One of Nepal's first five-star hotels, the Soaltee was inaugurated in 1966, when the country's tourism industry was just in its infancy. Today, the portfolio of this home-grown brand encompasses six hotels in the country, including Nepal's first certified "green" hotel. The group has recently expanded into Europe with the opening of two Soaltees in Frankfurt, Germany.

Constructed of red brick with sloped pagoda roofs, the Soaltee features two separate accommodation wings, accessible via a guarded stone gate and a drive lined on one side with brass prayer wheels, should you feel the desire to accumulate some good karma. The interior is kept immaculately buffed and polished, with gleaming white marble floors, exquisite floral arrangements, and walls and niches featuring local art, creating a contemporary and international ambience while still retaining a sense of history and place.

A serene retreat from the chaotic streets of Kathmandu, while still being close enough for downtown sightseeing, the hotel is set within five hectares of well-trimmed lawns, old trees and flowering garden beds, with plenty of quiet spaces to sit and contemplate, write a postcard or just enjoy the birdlife. It has a resort-like feel, with low-rise buildings such as conference areas, spa and VIP suites in separate buildings connected via garden paths, an outdoor pool and even a tennis court. In the evening, guests gather on the large sheltered terrace for pre-dinner drinks.

There are 285 in total, from executive rooms to VIP suites, the latter of which were having a refurb during my visit. I'm in a king-bed Classic Heritage room, at 26.5sqm, which feels warm and elegant with Nepali design elements such as the sliding lattice doors that can be opened to look out over the gardens, rooftops and mountains of Kathmandu, embroidered bed covers, floor rugs and traditional artwork. Bathrooms are spacious, modern and well-equipped. Unusually, the hotel still has smoking rooms, so be sure to be specific about which you want.

There are plenty of places to sate your hunger and quench your thirst, from the pool patio to globally roaming all-day dining at the Garden Terrace, where breakfast is also served. The elegant Kakori restaurant has a menu featuring food from north India and the border regions, including curries, kebabs and tandoor breads, while Bao Xuan serves regional Chinese specialities and dim sum, from prawn shao mai to Sichuan crispy chicken. Vegetarians will be pleased at how thoughtfully they are catered to across all the hotel dining outlets.

Sports addicts needn't miss important games, with drinks, snacks and a big screen playing major matches in the Sport Bar. For guests who prefer to engage, rather than watch, there are the lawn tennis courts and a pool, as well as a small but adequate fitness centre. And while some of us wouldn't consider it "sport", if you're into the game of chance, the hotel has the city's biggest casino. Personally, splashing some cash at the excellent spa, with specialities from facials to hot stone massage and ayurvedic oil treatments, is a spend with far better returns.

The Soaltee has one of the most impressive hotel breakfasts you'll ever experience, with a vast spread of buffet and cook-to-order stations featuring everything from omelettes to Chinese noodles, crisp-edged dosa stuffed with spiced potato, Nepali specialities like tarkari (vegetable curry), plus a smorgasbord of cheese, meats, sweets and pastries. There's even a "chayia" cart where you can try the warmly spiced Nepali version of chai.

The writer stayed at the Soaltee Hotel as a guest of Insight Vacations