This one-of-a-kind ship is your ticket to Norway's remotest, most stunning corners

Chunky snowflakes rain down silently, covering Havila Castor's upper deck in a fine layer of white. Flakes catch on my nose, tongue and eyelashes, and I revel in the childish joy of a proper snowshower. The air is bitterly cold up here, north of Tromso in Norway's Arctic region, so I retreat inside to the warmth and silence of Havblikk Bar and Lounge, where I commandeer a windowside table and watch the snow-covered coastline go by. It's one of many purpose-made "sit and watch" spots on this ship, a necessity borne both from the Arctic's unpredictable weather and Havila's unique style of cruising.

Unlike the big-name global cruising companies, Havila is less about show and all about substance. It's pared-back Norwegian sensibility at its finest, applied to accommodate Havila's two differing types of clientele. Castor is part cruise ship and part port-to-port passenger ferry, which affects everything from the ship's size and number of cabins to the frequency at which it stops. Each day on this journey along Norway's long coastline, navigating in and out of fjords between Bergen in the country's south-west and Kirkenes in its far north-east, we have no fewer than three port calls. Some are just a short 15 minutes to allow local passengers on and off, some are for cargo-loading at obscene morning hours that only a cracking northern lights display could wake me for. At no point is there an overnight docking, just a handful of stops that buy us enough time to head out on a short shore excursion.

While cruisers on multi-day journeys up and down the coastline can retreat to the comfort of their cabins, those on shorter journeys have access only to the public spaces. Seaview superior cabins are spacious, thanks to a distinct lack of overstyled clutter. They contain just the necessities - a bed, couch, desk, decently-sized bathroom and large picture window - all finished in moody ocean blues and light oak.

Norwegian-made Brunstad and Stressless chairs in the same hues dot the atrium area, fronting panoramic windows. It feels very much like a Norwegian home, where lenestoler - or armchairs - are a staple by any large window. There are more lenestoler downstairs, surrounding tables by the take-one-leave-one "open bookcase" and puzzle library. In the mornings, Havblikk Bar functions as a sitting space, too, closed for service before noon, but not for anyone seeking a quiet and warm viewing space. All over the ship, the armchairs are occupied by a healthy blend of binocular-wielding cruisers and matpakke (a Norwegian packed lunch) toting locals, each in need of a comfortable spot to while the hours away.

I burn through my Kindle's digital bookshelf as we head northwards, looking up at regular intervals to take in the sight of snow-dusted fishing villages and mountains that escape into the sea. There are little to no onboard distractions to squeeze into my nonexistent itinerary.

There are no casinos or waterslides, day spas or pool parties. A short celebration with thumping bass and flag-waving as we pass a sister ship is as close as we get to a rowdy evening, and a one-off, post-dinner music quiz in Havblikk Bar gives us something to ponder over the evening's nightcap.

Not even the jacuzzi, sauna or gym detracts from the ship's main attraction: that view. It plays a starring role in each facility, reminding you exactly what it is you boarded for while you soak, steam and run. On land, the provided "entertainment" is a different story. In Honningsvag, guests board a bus to head out to the nearby North Cape. I lean into the higher-octane option, suiting up against the heavy snow and joining a 1.5-hour-long ATV tour up to the town's highest peak. It's a pattern I follow throughout the cruise, choosing reindeer sledding over a more subdued Arctic Cathedral tour in Tromso, and horse riding along the beaches of Lofoten over a scenic bus ride. I've reasoned there'll be plenty of time back on board to simply watch the outdoors roll on by.

My table at Havrand Restaurant, reserved for me at the pre-prescribed meal times for the duration of the trip, abuts the window on the ship's port side. In the mornings, a Scandinavian buffet of grainy breads and cold cuts supplements the a la carte menu. At lunch and dinner, a changing list of small, locally sourced dishes - think reindeer broth and herring sandwiches - populate the menus. Dinner is higher-end again at Hildring Fine Dining, where each night heralds a different, multi-course themed menu. I journey around Norway via different farmed proteins: lamb, reindeer, beef and duck. One night, diners remain localised in the far north of Norway, feasting on king crab legs served with soft white bread and butter. It's a meal that embodies the experience aboard Havila Castor, the perfect blend between comfort, culture and Norwegian simplicity.

The writer was a guest of Havila Voyages