Find serenity at this all-inclusive bush oasis.


Where: 70 Grandview Lane, Bowen Mountain, NSW
How much: From about $2000 a night, with a two-night minimum stay on Friday and Saturdays, and no minimum stay midweek
Explore more: spicersretreats.com
Nothing says luxurious tranquillity quite like dimming the chandelier above your generously deep bathtub to soak in the twinkling panorama of Sydney at dusk as you sip a glass of silky red to the soothing soundtrack of a crackling woodfire. Sitting high above the bustle and noise, cradled in the foothills of the Blue Mountains, Spicers Sangoma Retreat - part of the Salter Brothers Hospitality portfolio of resorts - is a stylishly secluded, elegantly presented adults-only enclave of eight cosy-chic suites surrounded by nothing but bushland and birdsong. Each bush suite has its own private view of the greenscape and beyond: Sydney's teeming expanse has never looked as beautiful (Vast. Distant. Hushed. Twinkly.) as it does at night from our private deck. Or from the tub.

Delicately perched on the side of Bowen Mountain near Kurrajong, this snug oasis takes its name from the Zulu word for a traditional healer. Between the gentle chorus of frogs, the lullaby trickle of the mountain creek and the soft twittering of fairy-wrens as they flit and dart and fetch their wriggling supper from the lawn beside the infinity pool, there's vibrant ecology and green, serene beauty in this world heritage-listed landscape. Breathe in the sigh of the breeze through the leaves as you get your May Gibbs on exploring the towering eucalypts for gumnut babies - all while the Porsche destination charger powers up your EV.
The suites - which include a tented Canopy Suite in the treetops - blend in around the main building. In the main lounge, animal-hide ottomans and horn sculptures provide an African accent as warm, welcoming staff like Molly and Kyla keep the vibe classy but comfortable.

If the bush all around brings serenity, our Luxury Bush Suite adds creature comforts. Cow skin rugs on the polished concrete floor. Floor-to-timber-ceiling glass doors to frame the panoramic views beyond your screened deck. A rainfall shower and that decadently deep, two-person Philippe Starck bathtub are open to the room - and the deck and the view. Plus a wood-heater to add some crackle to the romantic ambience or to simply gaze into from the king bed.

From the grand old frangipanis leaning by the windows outside to the soft lighting and luxe Tablekraft Aswan cutlery inside, Amara is a sophisticated dining room for a sophisticated menu. Because this is an all-inclusive experience, check-in is neatly timed for lunch, the first feast of two days of luscious breakfasts, lunches and dinners. There's a fresh harvest feel to Amara's artful degustation dishes, which change daily to highlight local produce. Mains like kingfish in coconut and lime or beef with peppercorn are divine parcels of deep flavour and subtle textures, expertly paired with premium wines. At breakfast, I can't resist a bottle or two of the local crushed pear Hillbilly Cider to accompany the stand-out day-starter of spiced mushroom and halloumi shakshuka with dukkah.

It's a short drive up the Bells Line of Road to Bilpin, fertile land of the mountain apple. The cafes, roadside stalls and fruit orchard outlets offer fresh apple juice, apple turnovers and apple pies, superb Bilpin Bush Honey and the chance to check whose cider crushes it in these parts.

You're not leaning into Sangoma's decadence if you're not unwinding in the spa tent with a rejuvenating couples massage at Spa Anise.
The writer was a guest of Spicers

James Joyce is executive editor of ACM, the publisher of this masthead. Based in Canberra, he is a former editor of ACM's The Canberra Times and began his journalism career as a cadet reporter for his hometown paper, ACM's Newcastle Herald, where he spent two decades moonlighting as the masthead’s movie and TV critic while working his way up to the position of deputy editor.




