Forget Paris: why you need to visit Europe's most underrated foodie capital

Poor old Luxembourg, often described as a boring place with dreary weather and forgettable food. "Why would you go to Luxembourg?" asks my Parisian pal. "I've never heard anyone say anything good about it." Good question. Why sacrifice another sunny day in the French capital to journey by rail two hours each way to a place I'm not sure I'll like? Because it's there, because I want to see it for myself, and because I am committed to visiting three new (to me) countries each year.

The Grand Duchy of Luxembourg, one of Europe's smallest countries, is bordered by Belgium, Germany and France. This geography has mightily influenced the history and culture of the place known informally as Lux, not least in its foodie landscape. For a country its size, Lux has an extraordinary number of high-end restaurants, world-class chefs and culinary accolades.

Bite into the national dish of savoury smoked pork collar with broad beans, and you could be in a rustic bistro in Alsace. Gobble up some gromperekichelcher, wildly popular potato pancakes, and it's giving German comfort food vibes. The demand for quality beer and wine is as strong in Luxembourg as any major city in Belgium.

I nab a last-minute reservation at Brasserie-Restaurant Um Dierfgen, enticed by the sign out front that promises Luxembourgish specialties. The list of main dishes, all featuring certified-local meat, is a butcher's delight. Beef tartare, turkey schnitzel, rabbit in mustard cream sauce, kidneys wrapped in flaky pastry. I sidestep the horse steak and boiled beef salad, landing instead on a starter-size plate of oven-grilled local ham and bacon dumplings with salad. A second course, sauteed frog's legs with garlic butter sauce, is decadently rich and satisfying.

There's no time for a leisurely dessert, but if I hurry, I can pick up some pralines at nearby Chocolate House. They'll sustain me on the train ride, as I say "addi" to Luxembourg and "bonsoir" again to Paris.