Witnessing a centuries-old Indonesian whip battle that still holds deep meaning

When I arrive at Melo Village, 450 metres above sea level, to meet the Manggarai tribe after 12 days of sailing with SeaTrek Sailing Adventures, I feel I'm still at sea. In some way, I wish I were. I've come to witness men whip each other to inflict pain, a practice I don't prescribe to. But the age-old Indonesian art form, showcased by the Caci fighters on Flores Island, is reputed to hold significant cultural meaning. The Caci battle was once used to settle conflicts between tribal members over land ownership. Today, it's performed for marriages, births, funerals and to celebrate Indonesia's Independence Day. As the challenge begins, I sip rice wine and chew a euphoria-raising betel nut. Silence falls across the "arena". Two men equipped with whips and shields charge back and forth like wild bulls. They pick up speed, then one springs skywards, whipping his opponent's shield. He's showcasing his sexual prowess, giving the promise of new life.